Retinol: The holy grail?
“I’m not using an retinols or anything, but I’m almost 30 I need to start!”
TLDR; retinol is medication, & no joke! Always check for ingredients that can lead to sensitivity.
Is retinol really the miracle worker it’s touted as? So many of my clients nearing a certain age assume that they should be using it, even if they haven’t started.
Prescription tretinoin, the medicated and most direct acting form of retinol/retinoid is one of the (if not THE) most researched ingredients in skincare with trials dating back to the 70s. However, it is in fact medication and you should really only take medication when you need it.
Unfortunately, many dermatologists hand it out like candy and don’t even provide proper instructions for usage. I experienced this firsthand. Before I took it upon myself to become a licensed skincare professional. I was very determined to stop the endless cycle of “hormonal breakouts.” I would bombard each derm with questions during my visit, find a new one if I wasn’t satisfied with their explanations and, follow up with hours and hours of my own googles.
This highlights one of the major differences between doctors and estheticians - doctors treat diseases, we (estheticians) find solutions based on your lifestyle and needs.
Retinol is notoriously tricky to work with. Many times things get much worse (ie purging, flaking, dryness) before they get better OR can lead to so much sensitivity that you never get to reap the potential benefits.
Like many others, I experienced the telltale dryness and irritation that can occur when using tretinoin unsupervised. I developed lasting and major sensitivity to parabens (a perfectly safe ingredient for most), but thankfully the push for upgraded formulations means I can avoid them by and large.
Non-prescription/otc retinoids come with their own risks as well. Over time they can be equally if not more irritating than the prescription depending on the formulation and integrity of the manufacturer.
The example at the start is a true story, I started a new nighttime moisturizer but kept the rest of my routine and actives the same. After about 3 days I noticed unusual tingling, especially from products that shouldn’t cause any sensitivity. When I took a closer look at the only new product I saw retinol on the ingredient list. And this was only a few weeks ago!
But wait - what even IS retinol?
Retinol is form of vitamin A used in skincare; primarily targeting signs of aging and severe acne. Tretinoin is another derivative of vitamin A but is available by prescription only. Collectively, all these vitamin A forms are known as retinoids.
They primarily stimulate cell turnover and collagen production in the skin, decreasing the appearance of lines and wrinkles.
Additionally, retinol can strengthen the epidermis and reduce the amount of water that passively evaporates from the skin. This can result in the skin looking plumper and can reduce and slow the signs of skin aging.
However, the AAD (American Academy of Dermatology) notes that people of colour, particularly people with dark skin, should be careful when using retinol. It may cause irritation, which can trigger hyperpigmentation. (Case and point; myself)
Other common derivatives include: retinaldehyde and retinyl palmate. They are less potent but can be more effective when used in combination with other actives.
Things I’ve learned from trying and treating clients using retinoids:
it’s not exfoliating on its own
still need to exfoliate regularly with something gentle
more hydration and nourishment are needed for the new cells emerging
not for product junkies; your skincare routine should be as consistent as possible
take it slow….even slower than you would think
1 for 1 week, 2 for 2 weeks, 3 for 3 weeks, etc. until you can tolerate it daily that’s over 3 months introducing on ingredient at one strength and then you do it all over again at each new dose!
better products come with buffers and are easier to tolerate or combine benefits of different active ingredients
Global Skin Solutions Mandelic Brightening Mask features retinol in this overnight mask to more effectively treat hyperpigmentation. Potent formulas like these are better than cocktailing serums at home or using unbuffered prescriptions. - available through POMP Beauty
So is using retinol worth it? The answer will vary person to person. Ultimately, I recommend consulting a trusted licensed esthetician, like myself, to guide you to a product or routine that will be right for you.
Sources: Medicalnews.com, Healthline, American Academy of Dermatology
